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How Women Dress Up in the Southern Song Dynasty

Women in Lin’an generally wear a bun, that is, put their hair in a bun on the top of their heads, like a colorful cloud, so it is called a cloud bun, which is so-called “a bun pulls a section of cloud in Wushan.” Women in the Southern Song Dynasty wear more styles of jewelry, more new and wonderful. .

On the sideburns on both sides of the cheeks, a golden phoenix is ​​propped up, and women from ordinary families can’t afford a golden phoenix, so they use five-color paper to cut their hair.

There is such a record in “Qingbo Magazine”: “At the beginning of Huanghu, the crowns worn by women were not to exceed seven inches in height, and not to exceed a foot in width. For the sake of emulation, it is called “Nei Yang Guan” and it is called “Dropping Shoulder” and “Equal Shoulder”. Those who are as long as three feet. Waiting for the eaves of the car, they all enter sideways. It was called ‘big comb wrap’ at that time, and it was not used for non-ceremony.”

This is the situation of women’s crowns in Bianjing in the Northern Song Dynasty. This kind of palace crown is not used for injustice, so it can be seen that it is not the hair style of ordinary women’s crowns, let alone It will be banned in the future. The general Lin’an women in the Southern Song Dynasty were naturally even less crowned.

Women in Lin’an in the Southern Song Dynasty were very particular about headgear, and every woman wore earrings; because of combing a bun, hairpins have also become indispensable accessories for every woman. In addition to these two basic headgears, there are also hosta, gold These jewelry include metal products such as gold, silver and copper, as well as jade products. The variety of fancy styles is unparalleled: only one item of hairpin, there are Huatou, plain style, Lianer, Liansan, and short hairpins. And other styles. At that time, women’s headdresses were more beautiful, the so-called “gold, silver, pearls and emeralds are all over the head.”

Usually women like to put flowers on their heads, and gardenias are regarded as treasures.

During the Lantern Festival, there are snow willows, jade plums, Nao’e, cicadas, bees, butterflies, lanterns, etc. on women’s heads. These ornaments are all handicrafts made of silk fabric or mulberry paper. The light should be the object of the occasion. Liu Bangyan, a poet at that time, said in his poem “Watching Lanterns at Five Nights in the Shangyuan Dynasty”: “Late return is not forbidden by Jin Wu, and they are fighting for leftover hairpins and pendants.” At that time, there were so many ornaments on women’s heads, as can be imagined.

The jewelry worn by women in the Southern Song Dynasty has more patterns and more novelty and beauty than that in the Tang Dynasty. “Like the flower row in the official alley, the flowers gathered, crown combs, hairpin rings, and collars are extremely skillful and unique in ancient times.” (“Capital Ji Sheng” Southern Song Dynasty: Guanpu Naideweng) The commissioned officials planted sycamore trees in the palace in the forbidden court.

At the beginning of autumn, the Taishi officials wore Bingzuo and said: “Autumn is here.” Invading the morning, the streets are full of catalpa leaves, and women, women and children compete to buy them, cut them like patterns, and put them on the sideburns, in order to match the season.” (“Menglianglu” Southern Song Dynasty: Wu Zimu Volume 4)

“On the Lantern Festival, women all wear pearls, moths, jade plums, snow willows, bodhi leaves, lamp balls, gold pins, cicada and mink sleeves (Song engraved ‘raccoon sleeves’), and necklaces, and most of the clothes are still white. It is suitable under the moon.” (“Old Things in the Wulin” Southern Song Dynasty: Zhou Mi) “The shadows of the flowers are chaotic, and the laughter is loud. The moths are all over the road, forming clusters and clusters, clustered with crowns.” (“Rui He Xian”) Southern Song Dynasty: Kang Yuzhi) “Flowers are gorgeous, Yu Yingying.

Luo clothes are golden hazel. Moths are clustered with small dragonflies. Call each other to see the lamp.” (“Ruan Langgui” Southern Song Dynasty: Hong Xuan) “Moth snow willow gold Wisps of laughter, the fragrance of laughter is full.” (“Sapphire Case” Southern Song Dynasty: Xin Qiji)

The aristocratic women in the Southern Song Dynasty even competed with each other for their jewels and jewels. Dou Baohui.” (“Meng Liang Lu” Southern Song Dynasty: Wu Zimu)