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The official uniform system in the Song Dynasty

The official uniforms of the Song Dynasty were divided into sacrificial uniforms, imperial uniforms, public uniforms, seasonal uniforms, and military uniforms.

(1) Sacrificial clothing

There are Daqiu Mian, Dagon Mian, Yu Mian, Wu Mian, and Xuan Mian. Their shapes are generally inherited from the Tang Dynasty and determined after the Han Dynasty.

(2) Tongtian Crown and Yuanyou Crown Clothes

Tongtian Guanfu is second only to Mianfu. The crown is knotted with bead beads and has twenty-four beams. The front of the crown is decorated with Jinbo Mountain and cicadas. It is woven into a crimson gauze robe with cloud and dragon patterns. Heart-curved collar (the square heart-curved collar in the Song Dynasty is a decoration with a circle on the top and a bottom, which is shaped like a cleat. It is used to press and stick between the necks to prevent the collar from rising, implying the meaning of the sky and the earth), and the crimson gauze skirt (dress) to match , with a gold and jade belt around the waist, knees covered in the front, a ribbon in the side, white socks and black lapels.

The form of the Tongtian crown is very simple in the “Three Rituals Picture”, which is far from the reality. The Tongtian crown worn by Donghua Tiandijun in the painting of Chaoyuan Xianzhang made by Wu Zongyuan of the Northern Song Dynasty is relatively close to the reality, and it is similar to the Dunhuang Shishi Tang Xiantong Jiu. The frontispiece of the annual edition of the “Vajra Prajna Paramita Sutra” is similar in shape to the heavenly crown worn by the king.

The shape of Yuanyou Crown is the same as that of Tongtian Crown, except that there is no cicada pattern on Jinbo Mountain in front. The eighteen beams of Yuanyou Crown, the Jinbo Mountain without cicada pattern, and the Yutong Tongtian Crown are used by the crown prince.

(3) court clothes

It consists of a scarlet robe skirt, lined with a white flower robe, tied with a large belt, and then tied with a leather belt to cover the knees, with a square heart and curved collar, white silk socks and black leather shoes. Officials above the sixth rank hang jade swords and jade pendants.

In addition, brocade ribbons are hung around the waist, and different patterns are used to distinguish official products. When wearing court clothes, wear Jinxian crown, Diaochan crown (that is, the cage scarf, the cage scarf in Song Dynasty has evolved into a square top shape, with a shawl hanging down to the shoulders, and a peng feather inserted on one side of the crown) or Xiezhi crown, and a white hairpin on the back of the crown. Pen, wat board in hand.

From the Northern Dynasties to the Tang Dynasty, the square heart curved collar was lined with a semi-circular hard lining on the middle sheet to make the collar protrude. A square) piece is pressed onto the collar.

(4) Public service (ordinary service)

It basically inherits the style of the Tang Dynasty with a curved collar (round collar) and large sleeves, a skirt with a horizontal skirt, a leather belt around the waist, a Futou on the head, and boots or leather shoes on the feet.

Purple is used for public clothes above the third rank, vermilion for the fifth rank and above, green for the seventh rank and above, and cyan for the ninth rank and above.

During the Yuanfeng period of Emperor Shenzong of the Northern Song Dynasty (1078-1085 A.D.), it was changed to purple with a grade of four or higher, scarlet color with a grade of six or higher, and green with a grade of nine or higher. Those who wear crimson clothes wear fish bags.

(5) time service

In the annual season or the Five Sacred Days of the Emperor, robes, jackets, shirts, robe belly (hold belly), and Lebo are rewarded to civil and military officials and generals according to the previous system.

(6) Costumes of married women in the Song Dynasty

In the Song Dynasty, the courtesans were graded according to the men’s official uniforms, and the courtesans of the inner and outer courts were divided into three types: sarcasm, ruidi, juyi, Zhuyi, tinchai dress and ordinary clothes.

The empress wears cassocks for receiving books, paying homage to Jingling Palace, court meetings and other important events. The imperial concubine and the crown prince were registered and served at the court. The queen kisses silkworms and wears Ju clothes. Order the woman to pay homage to the emperor and wear red clothes on the chariot. Meet the guests at the banquet with tin hairpin dresses.

In addition to the queen’s clothes, the ordered woman wears a crown of nine dragons and four phoenixes. The crown has 12 large and small flower branches, and two temples on the left and right (that is, the left and right sides of the crown are like two-leaf ornaments, which are called “covering the temples” in later generations), Qingluo embroidery ( Wen pheasant) 12th grade (that is, the twelve-fold row).

During the reign of Emperor Huizong of Song Dynasty (1111-1117 A.D.), it was stipulated that the jewelry of the commanding wife should be a crown of flower hairpins, with two temples and jeweled tin ornaments on the crown, wearing Zhai clothes, Qingluo embroidery is Zhai, and the weaving is second to the clothes.

There are 9 flower hairpins of the first grade, the same flower number of Baodian, and 9 of the embroidered Zhai; 8 of the second-grade flower hairpins, and the 8th of Zhai; 7 of the third-grade flower hairpins, and the 7th of Zhai; 5 fifth-grade flower hairpins, Zhai 5, etc. Zhai clothes are lined with plain yarn in the middle, with collars, red slits (sleeves), scallops (clothes fringes), common Luohu, knees covered with the same color as the clothes, and scorpions (deep red) Light cyan) is the edge and the embroidery pattern is heavy. Large belts, leather belts, green socks, and ribbons are added to be worn at the ceremony of accepting books and silkworms.

The common clothes of inner and outer wives are real red sleeves, collared with red flowers (that is, sketched flowers) and long skirts with red flowers. Hongxiapei, medicine jade (that is, glass feeder) is a pendant. Red gauze back, yellow and red gauze shirts, white gauze crotch pants, yellow skirt, pink gauze blouse.