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Song Dynasty Clothing Fabrics

Clothing fabrics in the Song Dynasty were mainly silk fabrics.

The types of silk fabrics in the Song Dynasty include brocade, flower silk, gauze, silk, silk, and Kesi. Among the brocades of the Song Dynasty, Chengdu Shu brocade is the most famous.

The types of weaving in the Song Dynasty were also different from those in the Tang Dynasty. The light and breathable Luo fabric was the popular silk fabric at that time. China’s Luo fabric production reached its historical peak in the Song Dynasty.

In the hot summer, especially in the south, Luo has become the most commonly used high-grade silk fabric in people’s daily life. Most of the more than 50 pieces of clothing unearthed from the tomb of Zhou Yu in Jintan County, Jiangsu Province in 1975 were jacquard products.

In the same year, more than 200 pieces of Luo fabrics of different varieties were unearthed in the tomb of Huang Sheng in Fuzhou. Flora.

The four-warp twist is the highest peak of ancient Chinese weaving technology. The weaving technology of this kind of Luo fabric has long been lost and has become a mystery in the history of Chinese silk technology.

In the Song Dynasty, due to the weak national power and the emptiness of financial resources, a large amount of brocade was used to pay tribute or trade to foreign races. This is true of the objects unearthed from the tomb of Huang Sheng in the Southern Song Dynasty at Fucang Mountain in the northern suburbs of Fuzhou.

In the early years of the Northern Song Dynasty, the royal honor guards of the Song Dynasty all wore beautiful clothing, but later they switched to printing instead, and the printing process was prohibited from being used by the people.

However, Tang Zhongyou, a bureaucratic landlord in the Song Dynasty, violated the law by opening a colored silk shop in his hometown of Wuzhou, and used public funds to carve and print printing and dyeing spot valerian. Luoyang Xianxiangfang also has a famous printing and engraving artist surnamed Li, who is called “Li Zhuanghua”.

“Book Integration” Volume 681 “Suzhou Textile Names” mentioned that during the Jiading period of Emperor Ningzong of the Southern Song Dynasty (AD 1208-1224), there were people with the surname in Anting Town, Jiading who created the medicine patch cloth. The medicine is dyed blue; when it is dried, the ashes of the medicine are removed, and the blue and white are mixed with figures, flowers and birds, and poems of various colors, which are used as quilts and curtains.” Medicine-spotted cloth, also known as watering flower cloth, is the predecessor of today’s folk blue calico. This printed cloth is an important clothing fabric for folk women.

In the Song Dynasty, the queens and concubines, down to servants, entertainers, and male Yanju all liked to take it, whichever was comfortable and elegant.

Fuzi in the Song Dynasty—the usual clothing of women in the Song Dynasty, including ordinary clothes worn by aristocratic women. The style of Beizi in the Song Dynasty has a pair of breasts, narrow sleeves, collar, cuffs, and hem of the skirt are all inlaid with fringe ornaments.

The placket part is often left open, and the two sides are not tied with buttons or strings, allowing it to reveal the underwear. Regarding women’s underwear, there are also characteristics of the times. In addition to the close-fitting “tube top”, there is also a “belly circumference”. Belly girth is a kind of silk scarf that encircles the waist and abdomen.

The Beizi of the Song Dynasty obviously has the characteristics of narrow crotch, and the length only reaches the knee position. It is usually called a small-sleeved double-breasted swivel jacket, and a long skirt is often matched with a curved skirt. Women’s skirts are narrower than those of the Tang Dynasty, and have fine pleats, and “as many as frowning” shirts are mostly double-breasted and covered outside the skirt.

The fusion of clothing and tradition in the Song Dynasty is better and more natural, giving people the feeling of restoring the Chinese style. Women’s clothing in the Song Dynasty consisted of short jackets with narrow sleeves on the upper body and long skirts on the lower body. They usually wore a small double-breasted long-sleeved beanie outside the jacket, which was very similar to today’s vests. Pretty lace. The fashionable dresses of noble women are large-sleeved shirts.

The style of large sleeves is double breasted, wide sleeves, the length of the garment is knee-length, and the collar and placket are inlaid with lace.

Big sleeves in the Song Dynasty were originally the common clothes of imperial concubines. Because of their wide sleeves, they were named big sleeves. “Song History Yufu Zhi” records: “Its ordinary clothes have big sleeves for concubines.” Later it spread to the people and became the dress of noble women. “Zhu Zi’s Family Rituals” stated: “Big sleeves, today’s women’s short shirts are wide and long, reaching to the knees, and the sleeves are one foot and two inches long.” Another note: “The concubines use their backs instead of big sleeves.” It can be seen that the status is slightly lower. Women can’t wear big sleeves, they can only use backs instead.

Wearing this kind of clothing must be accompanied by gorgeous and exquisite jewelry, including hair ornaments, face ornaments, earrings, neck ornaments and chest ornaments.